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Aeolian Islands - Excursions to Timpone

To Timpone della Montagnola, also called Filo dell’Arpa (675 m.). This island has always been a rather secluded spot, lying on the margins of the archipelago and of the historic and socio-cultural events that have shaped the Aeolian Islands. Yet even here there have been archaeological finds dating from the Bronze Age and classical times. Indeed, during the Middle Ages the island remained completely deserted and was used only as pasture land for a few wild flocks, until being repopulated during Spanish domination. Local tourism also differs from that of the rest of the archipelago; there are no means of transport here because it has never been possible to build roads or carriageways on such rugged terrain. And so even today, all travelling is done on foot, up the endless flights of lava-stone steps built by the islanders over the past two centuries. When goods need to be transported, mules have to be hired, as in olden times. You arrive at the Palomba landing-stage in the harbour at Alicudi; a flight of steps then leads you up past the rows of typical Aeolian houses and through the dense terraces as far as the old abandoned village that was built in a high area for protection against Saracen raiders.

Even further up you come to Fossa Gebbia and Piano dell’Arpa, on the borders of the ancient volcano, where you can enjoy some truly magnificent panoramic views. You can also walk from Alicudi harbour up to Piacinello, a small village that has been bought by German tourists who spend most of the year there. You then continue on towards the district of Tonna, which still has genuine local architecture, with high drystone walls and small alcoves along the Road to the Cross. You can also make a boat trip around the island and get a view of the so-called fili, which are long strips of coagulated lava running vertically along the cone of the volcano, and the spectacular valleys of crumbled lava débris. Alicudi has no night spots, pizza parlours, pubs, newsagents, barber’s shops or anything of the kind. There are just two well-stocked food shops and the “Ericusa” café-restaurant. Tourists find accommodation either in the island’s only hotel or in the local houses and spend a holiday of the kind that has been quite forgotten elsewhere.

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