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Messina in Sicilia - The Folklore

The liturgical calendar is the origin of some of the most characteristic events in Messina's popular culture. Both because of their ancient origins, and also because of the city's tangible sense of tradition (despite the fact that it has suffered so many devastating catastrophes), such events are here celebrated with an enthusiasm and sense of participation which reflects the will of the local people to defend their identity.

The culmination of sacred and profane traditions occurs every year on the occasion of the celebrations for the celebrations Assumption of the Virgin Mary (patron of the city and, according to legend, bearer of a letter of benediction) in mid August. On 15th August, the image of Crist supporting his mother in the palm of his hand, and raising her to Heaven, is borne on top of a massive coneshaped "machine", designed in the structure of the universe: from the world up to heavens, with the angelic hierarchies in between. Local people from all social backgrounds and from all over the city drag "la Vara" ( the name, meaning "coffin", derives from the small glass casket holding the figure of the mortal body of the Virgin, at the base of the machine) by long tow-ropes, whilst singing hymns to Mary. Progress is slow and difficult, since the entire construction runs, on only rudimentary iron slides.

From 10th August onwards, the colossal statues of a couple of giants, on horseback- a Moor called Grifone, and a inhabitant of the village of Camaro (above Messina) called Mata, are taken around the city, which, according to tradition , they founded in the age of myth. This tradition, also dates back to at least the 16th century and certainly reflects more ancient pagan customs. Other periods of the year see more solemn processions throught the streets of Messina. At dusk on Good Friday, in an atmosphere of religious silence and accompanied by robed members of the city's ancient Confraternities, the "Barette" are taken in procession; these are groups of lifesize wooden sculptures, representing the stations of the Cross. For the procession of the Corpus Domini, during which the pomp of the Confraternities is joined by that of the city's clergy, the silver "Vascelluzzo" is brought out: this 18th century work from the Juvarra workshop reproduces the ship loaded with whear which miraculously appeared in the harbour during a plague epidemic. The Sacred Hair of Mary, which according to tradition tied the scroll sent by the Virgin to Messina, is taken on procession during the celebrations for the Madonna della Lettera ( 3th June).

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